In this early twentieth-century photograph, carriages stand outside the corner building on Neglinnaya Street. Two façades face the roadway; a restaurant sign looms above the central arch, although its smaller lettering cannot be fully made out in the image. On the evening of 18 December 1902, actors and writers gathered here after the first performance of The Lower Depths at the Moscow Art Theatre.
On stage stood Viktor Simov’s lodging house: rough wooden bunks, curtains and closely packed sleeping pallets. That same night, the performers found themselves in the Hermitage’s white, colonnaded hall, designed for Moscow’s affluent public. Olga Knipper-Chekhova’s letters preserve the transition from theatrical triumph to restaurant supper more faithfully than later retellings.
By December 1902, the establishment had been in existence for almost four decades. In 1864, according to Moscow Heritage magazine, the merchant Yakov Pegov and chef Lucien Olivier opened the Hermitage Olivier. The tale of their meeting beside a policeman’s sentry box over some fine snuff is a later legend. Other circumstances are documented: the tavern opened near Trubnaya Square, operated in the French style, and its guests were served by Moscow waiters in white shirts with silk sashes. Gilyarovsky recalled its communal dining rooms, private rooms and white, colonnaded hall. From the early 1890s, foreign businessmen and Russian merchants joined the traditional aristocratic clientele in the grand hall.
Two days before the premiere
On 16 December, Knipper recorded the preliminary plans for the forthcoming supper. Alexander Vishnevsky told her that Gorky had asked for a reception to be arranged at the Hermitage for about fifty people. The same account mentioned flowers promised for the ladies and champagne that was to flow freely. The letter records the plan before the premiere; it does not describe the actual cost, number of guests or table arrangements at the event itself.
The Moscow Art Theatre scheduled the premiere for 18 December 1902 according to the calendar then in use in Russia — 31 December in the New Style. The production was directed by Konstantin Stanislavsky and Vladimir Nemirovich-Danchenko, with sets designed by Viktor Simov. Stanislavsky played Satin, Ivan Moskvin played Luka, Vasily Kachalov the Baron, and Knipper-Chekhova Nastya. Before gathering beneath the restaurant’s columns that evening, they first had to appear before the audience as inhabitants of a lodging house.
Knipper described the performance without any haze of grandeur: everything was ‘simple, true to life, without tragedy’. It was precisely this restraint that gave the production its power. The audience repeatedly called for the author and performers; the actress compared the reception to the first performance of Chekhov’s The Seagull. In Simov’s stage setting, poverty was no picturesque backdrop: the cramped space and worn belongings shaped every movement of the large ensemble.
After the curtain calls, the evening continued beyond the theatre. The participants gathered at the Hermitage and settled into the colonnaded hall. Gilyarovsky wrote that dinners resembling Olivier’s receptions in private mansions were ordered here, and that the restaurant became particularly lively after performances. That night, the occasion was the premiere of Gorky’s play, which had just ended.
The white hall after the lodging house
On the morning of 20 December, Knipper wrote to Chekhov that the evening had been relaxed, ‘simple, without speeches’, before immediately clarifying: without any serious speeches. After their resounding success, the participants dispensed with formal ceremony. The letter preserves a rapid succession of people, sounds and shifts in mood.
Among the guests, Knipper named Baroness Varvara Ikskul, literary scholar Fyodor Batyushkov, Leonid Andreyev and his wife, Ivan Bunin, playwright Sergei Naydyonov, the poet and musician Skitalets, and writer Natalia Krandiyevskaya. Actors from the Art Theatre were there too. Writers, performers and members of Moscow society spent several hours together in the same hall, although the letter gives neither the exact number of those present nor their seating arrangements.
Anton Chekhov was in Yalta and learnt about the premiere through letters and newspapers. On 22 December, he asked his wife to describe the supper in detail and jokingly enquired what the guests had managed to eat and drink for eight hundred roubles. The figure of eight hundred roubles entered the story through Chekhov’s question, not Knipper’s account of the supper. The playwright was present only as a voice in a letter, awaiting details of an evening he had not attended.
Nemirovich-Danchenko did make a speech after all. According to Knipper, he spoke humorously and impersonated Gorky, as the author himself had asked him to speak. Knipper does not quote his exact words, so his jokes remain unknown. What the witness remembered was his manner: after the intense concentration of the performance, the director avoided any official solemnity.
The gusli and the late-night scandal
Knipper listed the musical details without providing an exact programme or chronology. Skitalets played the gusli and sang; an accordion and balalaika were heard in the hall, while guests sang Romani songs and danced a Russian folk dance if they wished. The letter also mentions cognac. The unrestrained clamour of the company after the weighty performance survives in a few short lines.
In the course of one evening, the actors inhabited two starkly different spaces: Simov’s lodging-house set and the restaurant hall where aristocrats, businessmen and university professors had once dined. Such was the Moscow rhythm of that night: after the performance, the participants gathered for supper on Neglinnaya Street.
The Hermitage had long hosted gatherings of writers and academics. In March 1879, Moscow writers and professors held a farewell dinner here for Ivan Turgenev; in 1899, a Pushkin dinner took place in the white hall. The restaurant was transformed for Tatiana Day. According to Gilyarovsky’s recollections, the expensive silk-covered furniture was removed, the floor was thickly strewn with sawdust, and plain wooden tables and chairs were brought in. Students celebrated alongside their favourite professors, writers and lawyers. The hall had been changing its social character long before that December night in 1902.
Later, the mood was shattered. Gorky left, and a man named Baranov, Knipper reported, became angry and began shouting and smashing glasses and plates. Some of the company stayed until morning and waited for the newspapers to arrive. In another letter, the actress explained to Chekhov that Gorky’s departure had enraged Baranov; she said the scene had spoilt the favourable impression. This commonplace quarrel brought to an end an evening that had begun with a theatrical triumph.
The morning after the premiere
Knipper preserved the unpleasant ending. She recorded the music, dancing and convivial mood, but alongside them the shouting and smashed crockery. The production’s later fame did not alter her letter: as a witness, she left behind the two unequal parts of a single night without reshaping them to fit a commemorative legend.
The theatrical record preserved the date of the premiere and the names of the directors, designer and performers. The correspondence added a human dimension: the plan for a supper for about fifty people, the named guests, the colonnaded hall, Nemirovich-Danchenko’s humorous speech, Skitalets’s gusli and the morning newspapers. The original plan, the evening itself and Chekhov’s later question belong to different letters and different moments in this story.
That night, the Hermitage became an extension of the theatrical event. The company showed the audience society’s lowest depths and then gathered at the restaurant with writers and other guests. They talked and sang, and towards morning waited for the newspapers to arrive. Without any prearranged ceremony, the restaurant linked the stage with Moscow’s literary milieu.
On the ‘Uncle Gilyai and His Times’ tour the Hermitage restaurant stands alongside the theatres and Gilyarovsky’s stories of city life. The connection is direct: the memoirist described the establishment’s layout and clientele, while the correspondence between Knipper and Chekhov preserved the events of one evening inside its white hall.
In the old photograph, carriages wait outside the façade. The image does not reveal who arrived after the performance or who was the first to leave the restaurant. By seven in the morning, some of the company were still waiting for the newspapers. After the scandal, Knipper rushed out into the vestibule, and Nemirovich-Danchenko took her home. With this brief departure, the letter brings the night after the first performance of The Lower Depths to a close.
We took a tour of Taganka designed for 12-year-old children. It was an excellent programme. We covered a great deal of ground and learnt so much. We discovered the story of Dryanaya Street and discussed the Vladimir Highway, the surrounding monasteries and churches, and the Old Believers. We now know where Korovin was born, where Stanislavsky was born and raised, where the Morozov merchant children lived, and why Arseny Morozov was considered such an outrageous figure in his day. We also discussed Solzhenitsyn, discovered where Stalin Avenue was supposed to be built, saw the bunker, walked to the Russian metochion of the Mount Athos Monastery, and learnt why the Illuzion cinema made Taganka famous. Of course, no tour would have been complete without Vysotsky and Lyubimov. We also touched briefly on Taganka Prison, although naturally we did not go there. All in all, it was an exceptionally rich and informative tour! Our guide Alexander was superb!
Our thanks to our guide Alexander for a magnificent sightseeing tour. Alexander’s love for Moscow and its history, his wide-ranging knowledge, elegant and engaging delivery, and personal charm make the tour not merely interesting and informative, but truly delightful! Thank you, Alexander! Tatiana and Tatiana, St Petersburg
On July 18th, we participated in the "Soul of Moscow" group tour led by Alexander. Kitay-gorod and its surroundings revealed a new side to us, and everyone thoroughly enjoyed it. Some of us began intensively studying related materials to broaden our horizons. We'll be back, and we highly recommend it! You won't regret it.
Good afternoon, on June 23rd we had a tour called " The Soul of Moscow ," led by Alexander. He's a very pleasant young man. We visited such lovely courtyards and alleys with him that we never even knew existed, and we learned so much. We really enjoyed everything, and we hope to continue our acquaintance. Alexander! Thank you! We had a great time with you, and we thoroughly enjoyed it. See you there!
This isn't my first time with Radius. This time, I took the Moscow metro . The goal was not only to admire the underground palaces but also to learn how to navigate the metro. As a resident of a region without a metro, I was a bit apprehensive and didn't understand how to navigate the metro. Of course, the internet helps, but live communication is much better. Tour guide Yulia handled this task perfectly. The information was accessible and interesting, the presentation was calm, and the communication style was very friendly. Thank you very much for the tour and the practical experience.
Good afternoon! I gave the "Soul of Moscow" tour to some of the capital's guests. We were thrilled to hear our guide, Anton. It was so informative and engaging, and very warm. To say we were absolutely delighted is an understatement. It turned out to be a truly family-friendly excursion. We learned so many interesting facts. The material was presented professionally, all our questions were answered, and we saw so much. It was simply WOW! Thank you so much, Anton, he's the best!!!!! From now on, I'll only come to you, the Radius team. I highly recommend it. I promise we'll see each other again soon on other tours.
Overall, the tour left a positive impression! Thanks to Alexander for the walk through the courtyards and atmospheric spots of Kitay-Gorod; we certainly wouldn't have done it on our own. The tour was comfortable, and the guide spoke confidently and calmly. One thing we personally missed: we would have liked more of the historical part, relating to ancient Moscow and the history of Kitay-Gorod. There were quite a few stories about the Soviet period and the bar scene, but for our group, this wasn't particularly relevant. We think the program could be a little more tailored to the age and interests of the group. It would also have been interesting to add more historical facts, monuments, and details about old Moscow and the area itself. That said, the tour was still interesting, and some places and churches were truly memorable. These aren't really "cons," but rather suggestions for an even more comprehensive program.
Hello! We had a corporate group of 10 people. Our guide was Anton, and we had a tour of Bulgakov. I would like to point out the excellent organization; everything went smoothly. The managers were very accommodating to our changes in the number of participants. The bus was very comfortable. Anton is a super-engaged and motivated guide. He lives this history and is delighted to share his knowledge and create an unforgettable experience. Everything went well. I highly recommend it!
Thank you for a fascinating tour! It gave me so much food for thought to explore! Note: Review of the "Zamoskvorechye" tour with guide Maria.
I'd like to express my gratitude on behalf of our team! Thank you for keeping to our scheduled schedule despite our lack of organization. Our colleagues appreciated your preparation for the tour! It was informative. Note: Review of the "Modern Residential Complexes, Factory Past, and Avant-Garde" tour of the ZILART residential complex with guide Maria. Maria prepared and conducted a customized tour for employees of the Samolet Group of Companies development company.
Thank you! You have great talent. Good luck! ☺️ You're a wonderful guide! Thank you again! Note: This is a review of the corporate tour "The Heart of the Capital" with guide Maria.
Thank you for a wonderful day today!!)) Note: review of the excursion "The Soul of Moscow" with guide Maria
On behalf of the whole family, I want to thank you for a very informative and interesting tour! Note: This is a review of the "Palace Dungeons" tour with guide Maria.
Good afternoon! I'd like to express my gratitude and that of my guide for organizing the tour! We were very pleased. We'd like to do it again in October, but on a different route — ZIL. Note: This refers to the tour for Samolet Group developers, led by guide Maria.
Thanks to Alexander for the bar tour of Baumanka ! It was fun, exciting, and we discovered so many new places! Awesome! May we reach new heights!
Good afternoon! I was on a tour of Sukharevskaya Square — we went all the way to Tsvetnoy Boulevard. I didn't expect it to be so interesting! For those wondering whether to go — go for it! It truly became one of my most memorable summer memories!
Anastasia, good morning! Thank you and Masha for yesterday! The speakers are happy. The connection through the headphones was often lost, especially at the checkpoint, but that's just our current situation. You could hear if you were standing close, no more than 1.5 meters away. Colleagues have already asked for your contact information. I'd be happy to share it and look forward to another opportunity to work with you. Special thanks to the Director for the Bureau . Note: " Heart of the Capital " tour for participants of the 2025 Moscow Oncology Forum. Guides: Anastasia and Maria.
We'd like to thank Anton and Alexander for leading the tour! It was fascinating to hear how the Krasnaya Presnya district developed and how Prokhorov's influence on our city's development. It was a pleasant immersion into a quiet, previously unexplored area!
Good afternoon, thank you so much, Anastasia. The " Uncle Gilyai " tour was fantastic. Even though we're Muscovites and know a lot about Moscow, the experience was amazing, so much new and interesting happened. We'll definitely be back.
Thank you for the " Heart of Moscow " and " Khamovniki " tours. Anton, a knowledgeable and passionate Moscow guide, gave me the tour. He's a great storyteller, intelligent, well-read, and captivating. You've truly opened up my Moscow to me! I'll definitely be back next summer to explore Moscow with you. I'll recommend your wonderful tour program to all my friends!
Excursions with the Radius travel agency are always a positive experience if you choose them. We planned a tour of Zamoskvorechye on our next visit. We've worked with our guide, Anton, before. We'll definitely recommend him to everyone we know. The tour is informative, not overloaded with dates, and the information is comprehensive yet easy to understand, as it's presented in a light, narrative manner, not like a history textbook, dry and academic. Thank you for this approach. We'll definitely use the Radius agency again on our next visit to Moscow.
Thank you so much for the tour of Zamoskvorechye . Despite the weather, it was very interesting and informative! Note: this refers to the tour with guide Anton.
A huge thank you to Anastasia. We had a fantastic tour of the Patriki district. We learned so much. Anastasia is a true master of her craft. The tour was captivating, not at all boring, lively and interesting. Everyone was delighted. We were full of new impressions. I definitely recommend it. You won't be disappointed!
We explored the Soul of Moscow with my family and Radius on my birthday. Everyone thoroughly enjoyed the walk! Anton shared so many interesting facts about the capital and its history, taking us into spiritual depths no one else had even suspected. Most of us were either born or longtime Moscow residents who spent a lot of time walking around. It was educational, heartwarming, and unforgettable. 🙂 Overall, this wasn't my first time walking around Moscow with Anton, and each time was a real adventure!