Two Tatianas and the “Soul of Moscow”: a Walk Through the White City

Две Татьяны на «Душе Москвы»

Two friends, both named Tatiana, joined the original ‘Soul of Moscow’ walking tour. Both were born in Pushkin, formerly Tsarskoye Selo, near St Petersburg. The Tatiana who booked the tour has already lived in Moscow for more than 20 years , while the other Tatiana came to visit her.

From the very beginning, a warm and trusting rapport developed between the friends and their guide. Maria spoke in detail about important sites, features along the route, the nuances of city life and some of the neighbourhood’s little secrets, including places they could visit independently after the tour. At one point, the two Tatianas suggested stopping for coffee at the café in the Ivanovsky Convent. Over coffee, they continued their leisurely conversation and shared their impressions.

From the Monument to Cyril and Methodius to the White City

As usual on the ‘Soul of Moscow’ tour, the route began at the monument to Saints Cyril and Methodius. Here, the guide spoke about the site itself and its significance for understanding the fabric of the city. She explained how Moscow expanded geographically: first came the Kitay-Gorod wall, followed by the wall of the White City. The participants were standing between these two historic defensive structures, neither of which remains part of the cityscape today.

The memory of these boundaries has endured. The layout of the Boulevard Ring preserves the legacy of the White City, while isolated sections, the contours of the terrain, a hill and other traces of the Kitay-Gorod wall can still be discerned in central Moscow. As the walk took place within the former White City, the old boundaries of Moscow remained a theme throughout the rest of the route.

The historic landscape of this district was not radically altered during the Soviet era. In many places, its streets and lanes still retain their medieval layout. What matters here is not only the individual buildings, but also the very fabric of the old city: its bends, courtyards, changes in elevation, narrow passageways, unexpected views and density of development—all easily overlooked on an ordinary walk through central Moscow.

Moscow’s Many Faiths

Here, Orthodox churches stand alongside other places of worship — the Moscow Choral Synagogue and the Lutheran Cathedral.

The Tatianas first visited the Ivanovsky Convent and its cathedral. They then climbed up to the Church of St Vladimir in Starye Sady. From here, they enjoyed views of Zabelina Street, Moscow’s hills and a small front garden that preserves the intimate, lived-in character of this place.

From Starye Sady, they continued to Gorka Park opposite the synagogue. They first viewed the building from the outside and discussed its place in the neighbourhood and the city’s history, before stepping inside. For both Tatianas, it was an unusual and fascinating experience: those with no connection to Judaism rarely have the opportunity to enter such a place of worship.

They spent longer than usual at the Choral Synagogue. Maria is a professional scholar of synagogue architecture — the subject of the doctoral thesis she is currently completing. The conversation soon went beyond a typical guided-tour commentary: from the interior design and decorative scheme, they moved on to the history of Moscow’s Jewish community and its life today.

They also discussed Jewish life-cycle rituals, the symbols of this religious tradition, the layout of the synagogue itself and the role of the community. The Tatianas took photographs, asked questions and recalled nearby places they had visited before. Yet many of the addresses, courtyards and hidden passageways revealed during the walk were entirely new to them.

Courtyards, Galleries and Pokrovsky Boulevard

After visiting the synagogue, we walked through the grounds of the Lutheran Cathedral before turning into the courtyard of the Dolgorukov Palace. It is one of those Moscow addresses you can pass countless times without ever suspecting that an important architectural landmark lies hidden in the courtyard.

Next, we saw a house with open, summer-style galleries. Its appearance particularly intrigued both Tatianas. Maria pointed out that this was not merely a picturesque old building, but a rare example of nineteenth-century architecture designed for mass housing. Very few such houses survive in Moscow.

The walk then continued past the castle-like mansion of the industrialist Knop. This French Gothic residence was recently restored and now stands out all the more against the surrounding buildings. The walking route ended on Pokrovsky Boulevard, concluding a journey from the ancient boundaries of the city and monastic precincts to religious centres, courtyards and rare architectural landmarks.

At the end, we spoke with the two Tatianas about the bureau’s other tours. The friends said they would like to join us again: the walk had genuinely captured their interest.

Throughout the tour, the conversation remained warm and attentive. The guests shared memories of other journeys, compared what they saw with their own experiences and returned to the details that had particularly stayed with them from Moscow’s streets and lanes. The conversation encompassed architecture, urban history, religious traditions and personal impressions—and will continue on another walk through Moscow.