The grand entrance to Pashkov House is on Starovagankovsky Lane, although the most recognisable view of the building is from Mokhovaya Street near the Kremlin. From the courtyard, you can see the gates and the court of honour, through which guests arrived at the main building. The Russian State Library describes both façades as principal façades: one faces the city panorama, the other the court of honour.
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What remains out of sight when viewed from Mokhovaya Street?
The view from Mokhovaya Street conceals the layout of the formal entrance. Within the grounds, the main house and the single-storey riding school and stables enclosed a cour d’honneur — a ceremonial courtyard — on three sides. The estate gates opened onto Starovagankovsky Lane; through them, visitors approached the house that, from Mokhovaya Street, appears above all as a palace on a hill.
Pashkov House from the courtyard: a paved passage leads through the gates to the main building. Wikimedia Commons, Pashkov dom back.jpg, author: user:Shakko, licence: CC BY-SA 3.0 source, license
The Russian State Library and the historical and cultural expert assessment report date the construction of Pashkov House to 1784–1786. Historian A. V. Sazanov cites V. O. Einhorn’s dating — 1784–1788, based on two plans. Both accounts agree that the house was built for Pyotr Yegorovich Pashkov. The façade facing Mokhovaya Street rose on the slope of Vagankovsky Hill, with a garden in front. Russian State Library staff member Yulia Alieva links the placement of the entrance on the lane to the building’s position along this street. Thus, the view from the city was from Mokhovaya Street, while guests approached the main house through the courtyard.
On Shakko’s photograph, dated to around 2008, shows Pashkov House from the lane. The photographer published the image under the CC BY-SA 3.0 licence. The photograph provides the viewpoint we need, but does not in itself establish the age of every visible detail.
How did the gates change the view of the house?
The gates of Pashkov House drew the eye into the courtyard: their sections align on the lane side, while on the cour d’honneur side they turn at an angle towards the house. According to the Russian State Library’s description, this widens the passage and gradually reveals the main building. In 1799, the traveller Johann Richter described an entrance from the lane into a widening courtyard, flanked by stables and a riding school.
The passage uses a small-scale Tuscan order, while the gates are decorated in the Ionic order; Tuscan motifs recur in the railings. Cannon barrels set into the ground survive beside the arch. The Russian State Library identifies them as hitching posts, while Alexander Mozhaev, in an article for Arkhnadzor describes them as wheel guards. The sources differ in their explanations of the barrels’ function.
Once visitors passed through the gates, the single-storey riding school and stables did not obscure the main building’s portico, raised to first-floor level. The Russian State Library links this to the design of the courtyard façade: the main house takes prominence, while the wings appear more restrained. This combination of a formal approach and service buildings gives the courtyard the character of a private urban estate.
The entrance gates and railings of Pashkov House on Starovagankovsky Lane. Wikimedia Commons, Railings with gates (Starovagankovsky Lane, Moscow) 01.jpg, author: SergeyStepykin, licence: CC BY-SA 3.0 source, license
Why did the shape of the courtyard depend on the neighbouring church?
The position of the Church of St Nicholas in Staroye Vagankovo and the size of its plot determined the layout of Pashkov House’s formal courtyard and boundary railings. This connection is established in the 2021 historical and cultural expert assessment report, which identifies the church as part of the ensemble. The symmetry of the main house was only one factor in the layout.
According to the assessment report, the main church was completed in 1759, incorporating parts of buildings from the 16th and 17th centuries. The church plot already existed when construction of the Pashkov estate began. The designer had to align the boundary railings with the edges of the church grounds.
What can a modern photograph tell us about the 18th-century estate?
The courtyard photograph from around 2008 confirms the position of the formal approach described by the Russian State Library, but does not show the estate without later alterations. The change is especially striking on the opposite side: when Mokhovaya Street was widened in the 1930s, the railings and a substantial part of the garden in front of the house were lost. In 1934, a staircase designed by architect Vitaly Dolganov was built on the slope, as noted by the publication Rayony Moskvy.
The staircase changed the view of the house from Mokhovaya Street; on the 18th-century estate, the formal approach began at the gates on Starovagankovsky Lane. This arrangement does not prove the legend that the house deliberately ‘turned its back’ on the Kremlin. The Russian State Library recounts it as a legend and also notes that no documentary evidence identifying the designer has survived.
On the “Heart of the Capital” tour Pashkov House features in the account of the historic centre’s architecture, and the route ends at Borovitskaya Square. This allows visitors to compare the street façade with the courtyard photograph; a visit to the courtyard is not included in the published programme. In the next instalment of ‘A Familiar Building from an Unfamiliar Angle’, we will take a fresh look at another Moscow address.
Sources
- Russian State Library: Cannon Barrels, a Triumphal Arch and the Cour d’Honneur of Pashkov House
- Russian State Library: The Regal Lion in the Exterior and Interiors of Pashkov House
- Russian State Library: Pashkov House. A Moscow Legend
- State Historical and Cultural Expert Assessment Report on the Church of St Nicholas in Staroye Vagankovo, 2021
- Wikimedia Commons: Pashkov dom back.jpg, Shakko, CC BY-SA 3.0
- Radius Tour Bureau: ‘Heart of the Capital’ Tour
- A. V. Sazanov: ‘House of Legends’, Russian History magazine
- Alexander Mozhaev: ‘This Is the House’, Arkhnadzor
- Russian Historical Society: ‘The House on Vagankovsky Hill’
- ‘Moscow Districts’: a route from the library to Arbatskaya
- Elena Lebedeva: ‘Church of St Nicholas the Wonderworker in Starye Vaganki’
We took a tour of Taganka designed for 12-year-old children. It was an excellent programme. We covered a great deal of ground and learnt so much. We discovered the story of Dryanaya Street and discussed the Vladimir Highway, the surrounding monasteries and churches, and the Old Believers. We now know where Korovin was born, where Stanislavsky was born and raised, where the Morozov merchant children lived, and why Arseny Morozov was considered such an outrageous figure in his day. We also discussed Solzhenitsyn, discovered where Stalin Avenue was supposed to be built, saw the bunker, walked to the Russian metochion of the Mount Athos Monastery, and learnt why the Illuzion cinema made Taganka famous. Of course, no tour would have been complete without Vysotsky and Lyubimov. We also touched briefly on Taganka Prison, although naturally we did not go there. All in all, it was an exceptionally rich and informative tour! Our guide Alexander was superb!
Our thanks to our guide Alexander for a magnificent sightseeing tour. Alexander’s love for Moscow and its history, his wide-ranging knowledge, elegant and engaging delivery, and personal charm make the tour not merely interesting and informative, but truly delightful! Thank you, Alexander! Tatiana and Tatiana, St Petersburg
On July 18th, we participated in the "Soul of Moscow" group tour led by Alexander. Kitay-gorod and its surroundings revealed a new side to us, and everyone thoroughly enjoyed it. Some of us began intensively studying related materials to broaden our horizons. We'll be back, and we highly recommend it! You won't regret it.
Good afternoon, on June 23rd we had a tour called " The Soul of Moscow ," led by Alexander. He's a very pleasant young man. We visited such lovely courtyards and alleys with him that we never even knew existed, and we learned so much. We really enjoyed everything, and we hope to continue our acquaintance. Alexander! Thank you! We had a great time with you, and we thoroughly enjoyed it. See you there!
This isn't my first time with Radius. This time, I took the Moscow metro . The goal was not only to admire the underground palaces but also to learn how to navigate the metro. As a resident of a region without a metro, I was a bit apprehensive and didn't understand how to navigate the metro. Of course, the internet helps, but live communication is much better. Tour guide Yulia handled this task perfectly. The information was accessible and interesting, the presentation was calm, and the communication style was very friendly. Thank you very much for the tour and the practical experience.
Good afternoon! I gave the "Soul of Moscow" tour to some of the capital's guests. We were thrilled to hear our guide, Anton. It was so informative and engaging, and very warm. To say we were absolutely delighted is an understatement. It turned out to be a truly family-friendly excursion. We learned so many interesting facts. The material was presented professionally, all our questions were answered, and we saw so much. It was simply WOW! Thank you so much, Anton, he's the best!!!!! From now on, I'll only come to you, the Radius team. I highly recommend it. I promise we'll see each other again soon on other tours.
Overall, the tour left a positive impression! Thanks to Alexander for the walk through the courtyards and atmospheric spots of Kitay-Gorod; we certainly wouldn't have done it on our own. The tour was comfortable, and the guide spoke confidently and calmly. One thing we personally missed: we would have liked more of the historical part, relating to ancient Moscow and the history of Kitay-Gorod. There were quite a few stories about the Soviet period and the bar scene, but for our group, this wasn't particularly relevant. We think the program could be a little more tailored to the age and interests of the group. It would also have been interesting to add more historical facts, monuments, and details about old Moscow and the area itself. That said, the tour was still interesting, and some places and churches were truly memorable. These aren't really "cons," but rather suggestions for an even more comprehensive program.
Hello! We had a corporate group of 10 people. Our guide was Anton, and we had a tour of Bulgakov. I would like to point out the excellent organization; everything went smoothly. The managers were very accommodating to our changes in the number of participants. The bus was very comfortable. Anton is a super-engaged and motivated guide. He lives this history and is delighted to share his knowledge and create an unforgettable experience. Everything went well. I highly recommend it!
Thank you for a fascinating tour! It gave me so much food for thought to explore! Note: Review of the "Zamoskvorechye" tour with guide Maria.
I'd like to express my gratitude on behalf of our team! Thank you for keeping to our scheduled schedule despite our lack of organization. Our colleagues appreciated your preparation for the tour! It was informative. Note: Review of the "Modern Residential Complexes, Factory Past, and Avant-Garde" tour of the ZILART residential complex with guide Maria. Maria prepared and conducted a customized tour for employees of the Samolet Group of Companies development company.
Thank you! You have great talent. Good luck! ☺️ You're a wonderful guide! Thank you again! Note: This is a review of the corporate tour "The Heart of the Capital" with guide Maria.
Thank you for a wonderful day today!!)) Note: review of the excursion "The Soul of Moscow" with guide Maria
On behalf of the whole family, I want to thank you for a very informative and interesting tour! Note: This is a review of the "Palace Dungeons" tour with guide Maria.
Good afternoon! I'd like to express my gratitude and that of my guide for organizing the tour! We were very pleased. We'd like to do it again in October, but on a different route — ZIL. Note: This refers to the tour for Samolet Group developers, led by guide Maria.
Thanks to Alexander for the bar tour of Baumanka ! It was fun, exciting, and we discovered so many new places! Awesome! May we reach new heights!
Good afternoon! I was on a tour of Sukharevskaya Square — we went all the way to Tsvetnoy Boulevard. I didn't expect it to be so interesting! For those wondering whether to go — go for it! It truly became one of my most memorable summer memories!
Anastasia, good morning! Thank you and Masha for yesterday! The speakers are happy. The connection through the headphones was often lost, especially at the checkpoint, but that's just our current situation. You could hear if you were standing close, no more than 1.5 meters away. Colleagues have already asked for your contact information. I'd be happy to share it and look forward to another opportunity to work with you. Special thanks to the Director for the Bureau . Note: " Heart of the Capital " tour for participants of the 2025 Moscow Oncology Forum. Guides: Anastasia and Maria.
We'd like to thank Anton and Alexander for leading the tour! It was fascinating to hear how the Krasnaya Presnya district developed and how Prokhorov's influence on our city's development. It was a pleasant immersion into a quiet, previously unexplored area!
Good afternoon, thank you so much, Anastasia. The " Uncle Gilyai " tour was fantastic. Even though we're Muscovites and know a lot about Moscow, the experience was amazing, so much new and interesting happened. We'll definitely be back.
Thank you for the " Heart of Moscow " and " Khamovniki " tours. Anton, a knowledgeable and passionate Moscow guide, gave me the tour. He's a great storyteller, intelligent, well-read, and captivating. You've truly opened up my Moscow to me! I'll definitely be back next summer to explore Moscow with you. I'll recommend your wonderful tour program to all my friends!
Excursions with the Radius travel agency are always a positive experience if you choose them. We planned a tour of Zamoskvorechye on our next visit. We've worked with our guide, Anton, before. We'll definitely recommend him to everyone we know. The tour is informative, not overloaded with dates, and the information is comprehensive yet easy to understand, as it's presented in a light, narrative manner, not like a history textbook, dry and academic. Thank you for this approach. We'll definitely use the Radius agency again on our next visit to Moscow.
Thank you so much for the tour of Zamoskvorechye . Despite the weather, it was very interesting and informative! Note: this refers to the tour with guide Anton.
A huge thank you to Anastasia. We had a fantastic tour of the Patriki district. We learned so much. Anastasia is a true master of her craft. The tour was captivating, not at all boring, lively and interesting. Everyone was delighted. We were full of new impressions. I definitely recommend it. You won't be disappointed!
We explored the Soul of Moscow with my family and Radius on my birthday. Everyone thoroughly enjoyed the walk! Anton shared so many interesting facts about the capital and its history, taking us into spiritual depths no one else had even suspected. Most of us were either born or longtime Moscow residents who spent a lot of time walking around. It was educational, heartwarming, and unforgettable. 🙂 Overall, this wasn't my first time walking around Moscow with Anton, and each time was a real adventure!